After spending a few hours on my hands and knees at Sam’s Produce in Arkansaw, Wis., I am convinced that everyone should incorporate strawberry picking into their schedule.
When my friend Mary Anne emailed with an offer to join her and a few pals at their favorite strawberry U-pick, I jumped at the invitation. When she mentioned, in a subsequent message, that we would be congregating at her place at 7 a.m., I briefly reconsidered. I live in St. Paul, and Mary Anne lives 80 miles to the southeast on a fairytale-setting farm in Maiden Rock, Wis. The prospect of hitting the road by 5:30 a.m. was a bit daunting, but I decided to tap my inner Morning Person and get with the program.
I don’t know who was more surprised: Me, when I discovered the loveliness of the post-dawn world, or Mary Anne, when I drove up her gravel driveway at precisely 7 a.m. Marvel was already at the farm, and Terry was right behind me. (She and her husband John run nearby Rush River Produce, a blueberry farm that belongs at the top of any U-picker’s summer itinerary).
We climbed in Mary Anne’s car and headed up and down hilly country roads until we passed through the tiny town of Arkansaw and into the wide, verdant expanse of the Chippewa River valley. Potato fields spread out in every direction as far as my eye could see. Mary Anne took a left, and suddenly we were there.

The sign to watch for in Arkansaw, Wis.
Another surprise. There were at least 50 cars lined up along what turned out is the farm’s strawberry patch; laid end to end it would cover the equivalent of about seven football fields. It was quite a crowd, considering it was the farm’s first day of the season and the gates had opened just 20 minutes earlier. Such is the allure of the fresh-picked strawberry.

People love their strawberries. The farm had been open for a half-hour when I snapped this picture. There were an equal number of pickers working behind me.
We got right down to it. A friendly attendant pointed us toward one of the long rows and we were off. In my shorts and white shirt I was obviously a first-timer, and within two minutes I regretted my sartorial selections. First, sitting with my bare knees grinding into dry mulch was not an ideal way to spend a morning; I sacrificed my favorite sweatshirt for the cause. Second, within 15 minutes my shirt was streaked with pink strawberry juice. Oh well, I’ve never much liked it anyway. Memo to self: Next time, wear jeans and a dark T-shirt.

My handiwork, after about five minutes of picking (and sampling).
Picking quickly evolved into serious business. Mary Anne pointed out that one of the farm’s many assets is the surrounding landscape. “You can see weather approaching from a long ways away,” she said. “One morning we watched a storm approaching, but did that stop us from picking? No.”
Mary Anne turned out to be a strawberry picking machine. When I patted myself on the back for filling a tray to overflowing, I glanced over and saw that Mary Anne was putting the finishing touches on her second box. Marvel’s box was barely half-full. “I’m not going for quantity, I’m going for quality,” said Marvel. “You just keep telling yourself that,” was Mary Anne’s response.

Marvel, hard at work.
There’s lots of sampling, too. Each sweet, sun-dappled bite usually sent a gusher of juice running down my chin. You can’t help but overhear conversations among your fellow pickers.

Mary Anne takes a breather to take a bite.
“How many have you already had?” asked one woman. “Seven,” was her friend’s reply. “No, eight,” she said, popping another in her mouth. I looked up and saw that she was smiling and her eyes were closed, her face lit up in a strawberry-induced revery. Terry, who knows a thing or two about U-pick rituals, looked at me and smiled. “You have to taste,” she said. “That’s the best part of berry picking.”

Like everyone else at this beautiful farm, Terry has lots to smile about.
Just then Mary Anne stood up and groaned. “This used to be easier,” she said with a laugh. I knew just what she meant. My knees and ankles were complaining; I really need to get to yoga more often. “The spirit is willing,” said Terry with a laugh. “It’s the knees that are weak.”
As I picked I also gleaned a few tips. Look for the smallest, reddest berries, which means steering clear of berries with white tips. “You know you’ve got a perfect one when you hear a ‘pop’ as you pull them off,” said Terry. “That’s the sound you’re listening for.”
As time passed, the cloudless sky becomes bluer, a slight breeze moved across the rows and the pickers who seemed so far away when we started suddenly picked their way to within yards of my position. A large group of Mennonite woman arrived, dressed in long, plain dresses and starched white bonnets. I noticed that one of them was carrying an infant, dressed in a miniature version of its mother, the same long dress, the same white bonnet.
Mary Anne suggested we start in a new row, and when I saw what she’d accomplished - nearly three overflowing flats, I was awash in picker’s envy. Roughly two hours had passed in a flash, and I was ready to call it quits, having filled two flats to overflowing. “It’s amazing what you can do if you get up early,” said Terry.
We loaded up the back of the car and drove to the checkout garage, where several friendly teenagers helped carry our haul to the scale. My take: 26 pounds. At $1.25 per pound, that worked out to $28.75. I wrote out a check. A personal check! I was momentarily propelled back to the late 1980s, when everyone everywhere wrote and accepted checks.

Part of what the four of us took with us when we left Sam’s Produce.
No garage has ever smelled so good, due to a long table topped with containers of various sizes, all filled with fragrant, fresh-picked berries. The prices seem very reasonable: $3.50 for a quart, $13.50 for a gallon, $26 for a flat.
I spoke briefly with co-owner Dan Sam. He and his wife Tammy have been raising strawberries for about 15 years. Their farm started small, about a quarter of an acre, and mushroomed to its present 7 1/2 acre field. The cool, wet spring meant a slow start to the season, Sam explained, then gestured to the pickers fanned out across the field. “They’ve all been waiting,” he said. “Pent-up demand.”
(Sam’s Produce doesn’t have a website; the address is W7272 Cty. Rd. P, Arkansaw, Wis. Phone is 715-285-5351.)
The car was weighed down with 125-plus pounds of strawberries, their scent wrapping around me like a shawl. Terry carefully rested a flat on her lap. “Oh happiness,” she said as she popped one tiny, ruby-red berry into her mouth after another. “It’s amazing what Mother Natures gives us, isn’t it?”
It was time for me to ask the question I’d been thinking about since before we arrived: What was everyone planning to do with their treasure?
Mary Anne went first: “A fresh berry pie, definitely,” she said. “Lots of fresh eating, too. But most will go into strawberry jam. I buy Sure.Jell, a pectin. The old way is too much of a mess for me, and this method (see recipe below) is delicious; it just disappears from my house. We’ll also freeze a lot, and pull them out for smoothies in the winter, a little banana, some frozen strawberries, some frozen bananas and some yogurt, and it’s a power-packed morning.”
Then it was Terry’s turn: “I’ll make jam,” she said. “But we’ll eat a lot, too; I bought two quarts of cream yesterday in anticipation. I’ll get some to neighborhood shut-ins. And I’ll freeze them, because there’s nothing like the smell of cooking strawberries in January, when it’s bleak outside and that aroma of summer just fills the kitchen.” I asked how she freezed them. “I pull the caps off and toss them in a big bowl. I toss them with a half-cup of sugar then spoon them into Ziploc gallon freezer bags and freeze them.”
Marvel was up next. “I’m going to eat as many as I can, and I’m going to make strawberry vodka,” she said. “Then I’ll bring the rest to friends. I think I’ll bring some back to Johnny, the bartender at La Belle Vie. He just adores strawberries.”
We all had strawberries on the brain for the next few days. Mary Anne was in town later that week, and when she dropped for dinner by she left a jar of her jam. Delicious. Here’s how she made it.
THIRTY MINUTES TO HOMEMADE STRAWBERRY JAM
Makes 5 cups.
Note: This recipe must be prepared in advance. From kraftfoods.com.
1 qt. ripe strawberries, stems removed, divided
4 c. sugar
3/4 c. water
1 box Sure.Jell fruit pectin
Directions
Rinse 5 1-cup containers in boiling water and set aside. In a large bowl, crush strawberries, 1 cup at a time. Measure exactly 2 cups crushed berries into a large bowl. Stir in sugar and let stand 10 minutes, stirring occasionally. In a small saucepan over high heat, combine water and pectin and bring to a boil, stirring constantly. Continue boiling and stirring for 1 minute. Add water-pectin mixture to fruit mixture and stir 3 minutes, or until sugar is dissolved and no longer grainy (a few sugar crystals may remain). Immediately fill all five containers to within 1/2 inch of tops. Wipe off top edges of containers and immediately cover with lids. Let stand at room temperature for 24 hours. Jam can then be used, stored in refrigerator for up to 3 weeks or frozen for up to 1 year; thaw in refrigerator before using.